Recently, there has been a significant trend towards naturalness, encompassing various aspects of our lives, including body hygiene and care. One might ask: why do consumers eagerly choose natural cosmetics? The answers can vary, but some key reasons include:
- The desire to avoid undesirable ingredients (such as EDTA, SLES, parabens, paraffin and petroleum jelly as derivatives of petroleum, silicones, PEGs);
- The belief that such cosmetics are more effective;
- The belief that natural cosmetics are safer to use;
- Environmental concerns and animal protection;
- Efforts to reduce/eliminate poverty in African or Latin American countries by practicing so-called fair trade;
- The trend towards healthy eating, natural health and beauty care, and the rejection of processed foods, chemical medicines, or cosmetics rich in synthetic ingredients.
When introducing a cosmetic with a natural claim to the market, it is important to remember that any information about the cosmetic published for marketing purposes—regarding its content, nature, properties, effects, effectiveness, etc.—constitutes a claim about that product. These claims can be conveyed through words, images, or pictograms, which may appear on the product (such as on packaging, labels, and/or attached leaflets) or in advertising materials (e.g., at the point of sale or in various media). Consequently, terms like «natural,» «eco-friendly,» or «organic» are typical marketing claims that must be substantiated by evidence.
It should be emphasized that the law does not define the term «natural cosmetic.» There is no single, uniform definition of a natural/organic product; instead, there are only guidelines for the production of natural cosmetics, which often leads to confusion and errors.
So, what can a manufacturer do if they want to market their cosmetic as natural? They have several options, one of which is certification according to standardized criteria. Certification is the confirmation of certain characteristics of a product or process. A third party (a certifying organization) issues a written certification confirming that specific requirements have been met. Certification is voluntary, paid, and subject to control. Certificates are issued by certifying bodies for a specific period, usually one year. In Europe, several bodies certify natural and organic products. Until 2010, each operated independently according to its own criteria, which often differed. In 2010, the international association COSMOS (Cosmetic Organic Standard) was formed, bringing together five certifying bodies (BDIH, Cosmebio, ICEA, Ecocert Greenlife, Soil Association) and publishing unified COSMOS standards, which provide a comprehensive view of cosmetics. Certification can pertain to both the naturalness of the cosmetic—COSMOS NATURAL—and its organic nature—COSMOS ORGANIC. Among the aspects evaluated are:
- Packaging and labeling, which should be environmentally friendly, made from biodegradable or recyclable materials (e.g., wood, glass, aluminum);
- Marketing claims regarding naturalness/organic content, which should be truthful and not misleading to consumers. The label must indicate the percentage of organic ingredients;
- Ingredients—their origin and processing. For example, chemical processes must comply with Green Chemistry principles (low energy consumption, minimal waste);
- Production, ensuring separation from the production line of non-certified cosmetics and using only specified agents for cleaning and disinfecting production equipment, such as plant-based ethyl alcohol.
Another option for natural cosmetics manufacturers is to meet the requirements of ISO 16128, which consists of two parts:
- The first part, published in February 2016, is brief and primarily intended for raw material producers. It contains definitions of natural and organic ingredients, among others;
- The second part, published in September 2017, is mainly for cosmetic manufacturers. It provides detailed guidelines on calculating naturalness or organic indices for cosmetics.
As with certification, compliance with the standard is voluntary. The standard does not provide a comprehensive view of the cosmetic; it mainly concerns raw materials and formulations. It does not cover packaging or environmental factors, nor does it include sustainability criteria. It serves only as a guideline, imposes nothing, and does not provide a strict list of permitted and prohibited raw materials (such as colorants, preservatives, fragrances) or processes.
Both methods of proving the naturalness of cosmetics have certain advantages and disadvantages and will undoubtedly have their proponents and opponents.
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