Research of cosmetic products before introducing them for sale

Every day in stores we see a wide range of cosmetics, shelves are filled with various creams, balms, perfumes, lipsticks, fluids, and deodorants. Cosmetic companies introduce new products every year, expanding their cosmetic portfolio. However, in order for a cosmetic product to reach the shelves, it must undergo a series of tests to ensure its safety of use. The safety of cosmetic products is extremely important for us consumers, and manufacturers, distributors, and importers are responsible for ensuring it.

Newly manufactured products undergo rigorous testing to confirm that the cosmetic meets specific requirements. The appropriate tests, regulated by law, are necessary to introduce a new product to the European market. According to the requirements of Regulation (EC) No  1223/2009 of the European Parliament and of the Council of 30 November 2009 on cosmetic products, the person responsible for placing the cosmetic product on the market is obliged to conduct tests in the following areas:

  • microbiological purity of the product,
  • verification of the level of preservation (challenge test),
  • stability and compatibility of the cosmetic mass with the packaging,
  • dermatological evaluation of the cosmetic,
  • applicational or instrumental testing.

Microbiological testing of cosmetics

Microbiological testing involves evaluating the microbiological analysis of a cosmetic product. It is aimed at identifying and protecting the cosmetic product against the most dangerous strains of microorganisms: Staphylococcus aureus, Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Candida albicans, and Escherichia coli. The number of aerobic microorganisms, including yeasts and mold fungi, is also examined. The need for microbiological testing is associated with the potential for causing serious skin and mucous membrane infections by microorganisms.

Cosmetic preservation test

The evaluation of the preservation of a cosmetic product (Challenge Test) aims to check the selection and effectiveness of the preservative system used in the cosmetic product during storage and use. Proper preservation of the cosmetic product is extremely important to ensure that the product does not become a source of infection for consumers. The choice of preservative depends on many factors, such as activity over a wide pH range, water solubility, ease of incorporation into the recipe, chemical compatibility with other ingredients of the product, and compatibility with the packaging material.

Stability and compatibility tests of cosmetic mass with packaging

Stability and compatibility tests of cosmetic mass with packaging are conducted in various temperature and humidity conditions, as well as exposure to different types of light simulating sunlight or artificial store lighting. Their purpose is to confirm that the cosmetic mass is stable under the influence of various factors and does not change its properties as a result of interaction with the packaging. These studies should demonstrate that cosmetics do not significantly change their properties during transportation, storage, or daily use by consumers.

Dermatological tests

Dermatological tests (patch tests) are performed on the final recipe of a cosmetic product and aim to detect contact allergies caused by cosmetics. They verify whether a particular cosmetic product is safe for the skin, and therefore does not cause irritations. In the case of some cosmetic ingredients, both natural and synthetic, an allergic reaction may occur. The substances most commonly causing allergic reactions include fragrance compositions, dyes, and preservatives. Dermatological tests are conducted on a specific group of test subjects, and their goal is to exclude any undesirable effects of the cosmetic.

Application and apparatus tests

Cosmetics research also includes application tests, which are conducted on a group of volunteers who demonstrate the advantages and disadvantages of the cosmetic while using it. Application tests aim to confirm or deny that the properties of the cosmetic product are adequate to the marketing description placed on the packaging.

Apparatus tests are conducted to confirm objective results of usability tests and obtain specific numerical values. They involve measuring the skin condition using non-invasive research methods and are conducted under controlled conditions using specialized measuring devices on a group of individuals selected for the purpose of the product.

Safety Assessment Report

Before introducing a cosmetic product to the market, it is necessary to conduct a comprehensive safety assessment of the product by a Safety Assessor. The safety assessment of cosmetics is a multi-step procedure that involves the analysis of toxicological data for individual ingredients of the cosmetic as well as the results of studies conducted for the cosmetic product. Although safety assessment is a complex procedure, its aim is to ensure that the cosmetic product placed on the market will not cause skin changes or lead to illness.

Research on cosmetics before introducing them to the market plays a very important role, ultimately contributing to consumer satisfaction. Meeting the regulated standards and requirements of the law gives consumers confidence that the product on the store shelf is completely safe for us and can be used without any concerns.

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