TestsIn vitro testsBadania

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In the GBA Polska In Vitro Lab we offer the complete spectrum of assays to discover new biological efficacies of cosmetic ingredients.

We offer:

  • Enzymatic tests.
  • Evaluation of the gene expression: Measurement of the level of expression of genes linked with the biological processes of interest in skin, such as collagen and elastin production, skin hydration, melanin production, skin biomechanic properties, skin ageing processes, cells metabolism, cells renewal etc. This type of research is a first step in evaluation of the substance efficacy.
  • Evaluation of the production of proteins responsible for the skin structure and the correct biological processes in different types of cells.
  • Evaluation of the skin permeation.

Our experimental models:

  • We run our studies on different types of cells: fibroblasts NHDF, melanocytes NHM, keratinocytes NHEK and HaCaT, human cells of hair follicle papilla, and other.
  • We run studies on bacterial strains characteristic for some common skin problems, ex. Cutibacterium acnes.
  • We offer Epidermis 3D (Reconstructed Epidermis 3D) and cells co-cultures models.
  • We use a simplified skin microbiome model.
  • We offer the possibility of personalizing the design of the experimental model and the experimental set-up according to our clients’ needs.
  • We offer the possibility of applying the stress conditions to the experimental set-up, ex. air pollution, UV, IR, oxidative stress.

IN VITRO EVALUATION OF THE EFFICACY / BIOACTIVITY OF COSMETIC INGREDIENTS

CLAIMS AND SUPPORTING IN VITRO TESTS:

1. CLAIM: Skin color
  • Skin tone: Skin whitening, Skin lightening, Skin radiance increase
  • Skin dark spots: Dark spots color decrease, Dark spots prevention, Dark spots removal, Dark circles under the eyes diminishment
  • Skin tanning

Test: TYROSINASE ACTIVITY INHIBITION / ENHANCEMENT

Tyrosinase catalyzes the production of melanin in melanocytes. The inhibition of its activity leads to the skin lightening.

In tubo test, photometry.

Test: MENLANIN PRODUCTION EVALUATION

The increase on the melanin quantity gives to the skin a characteristic tanned color, and its decrease is beneficial in diminishing the appearance of the dark spots.

In vitro test on human normal melanocytes, spetro-photometric measurement.

2. CLAIM: Skin hydration
  • Maintenance of the natural skin hydration level
  • Increase of skin hydration

 

Test: INHIBITION OF THE HYALURONIDASE ACTIVITY

Hyaluronidase is an endoglycosidase that breaks down hyaluronic acid. The inhibition of its activity protects hyaluronic acid from the degradation caused by the ageing processes.

In tubo test, photometry.

Test: EVALUATION OF THE HYALURONIC ACID PRODUCTION

Hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan which is a major component of skin, where it is involved in tissue repairing processes and skin hydration. It is known for its excellent water binding properties, since 1 molecule of the hyaluronic acid can bind about 250 water molecules. The amount of the hyaluronic acid in healthy skin decreases with age and after the UV exposure.

ELISA test.

3. CLAIM: Skin microbiome
  • Skin wellbeing maintenance
  • Protection of the undisturbed skin microbiome
  • Restoring of the skin microbiome balance

 

Test: MODULATION OF THE BACTERIAL PROPORTIONS IN THE SIMPLIFIED SKIN MICROBIOME MODEL

The maintenance or recovery of the skin microbiome balanced composition helps to maintain the skin wellbeing and health.

Cocoulture of several bacterial strains characteristic for the human skin, measurement of the bacterial growth and density.

4. CLAIM: Skin elasticity
  • Elastin protection
  • Stimulation of the elastin production
  • Maintenance / protection / recovery of the skin elasticity

Test: ELASTASE INHIBITION

Elastase is a protease that breaks down elastin in the skin. The inhibition of its activity protects the elastin from the degradation caused by the ageing processes and the external factors, such as UV or air pollution.

In tubo test, photometry.

Test: ELASTIN PRODUCTION EVALUATION

This test evaluates the production of elastin by the normal human dermal fibroblasts.

ELISA test or immunofluorescence.

5. CLAIM: Protection / recovery of the skin firmness, Anti-wrinkles efficacy
  • Protection / recovery of the skin firmness
  • Lifting effect
  • Collagen protection
  • Increase of the collagen in the skin

 

Test: COLLAGENASE ACTIVITY INHIBITION

Collagenases are enzymes that break the peptide bonds in collagen. The inhibition of the collagenase activity protects collagen from the degradation caused by the ageing processes and the external factors, such as UV or air pollution.

In tubo test, photometry.

Test: COLLAGEN PRODUCTION EVALUATION

This test evaluates the production of collagen I by the normal human dermal fibroblasts.

ELISA test or immunofluorescence.

6. CLAIM: Protection from the ageing processes in the skin
  • Protection of the extracellular matrix
  • Protection of the skin structural proteins

Test: GENERAL OXIDATION PREVENTION

Oxidative stress in skin plays a major role in the aging process. This is true for intrinsic aging and even more for extrinsic aging, driven to a large extent by oxidative stress caused by UV irradiation. During oxidation, free radicals can damage the building blocks of healthy skin. The inhibition of the oxidative stress protects the skin from the premature ageing and degradation.

In tubo test, photometry.

Test: PROTEIN GLYCOSYLATION PREVENTION

Skin glycation is a process where excess sugar molecules bind to collagen and elastin fibers, leading to the formation of advanced glycation end products (AGEs). This process is one of the crucial mechanisms of the premature ageing.

In tubo test, photometry.

7. CLAIM: Reversing the skin ageing processes
  • Skin renewal
  • Induction of the skin natural repairing processes
  • Reversing the ageing process of the skin cells

Test: EVALUATION OF THE GROWTH FACTORS MODULATION (EGF, VEGF, PDGF, FGF, TGF)

Growth factors are naturally occurring proteins produced in various skin cells. These proteins are crucial in maintaining skin homeostasis to keep skin cells alive, healthy, and thriving.

ELISA Test.

8. CLAIM: Anti-acne effect

Test: CUTIBACTERIUM ACNES (PROPIONIBACTERIUM ACNES) GROWTH MODULATION

Cutibacterium acnes is a member of the skin microbiota found predominantly in regions rich in sebaceous glands. It plays a role in the pathogenesis of acne lesions. The inhibition of its excessive growth helps to improve the acne symptoms.

Bacterial culture, evaluation of the strain growth and density.

9. CLAIM: Protection form the negative effect of the external factors (air pollution, solar radiation)
  • Protection from the oxidative stress effect on the skin
  • Protection from the negative effect of the air pollution and solar radiation on the skin
  • Skin soothing effect
  • Protection form inflammaging
  • Protection of the cell processes for the natural ageing effects
  • Protection of the hair follicle cells from the oxidative stress

Test: LIPID PEROXIDATION PREVENTION

Lipid peroxidation occurs in skin-lipid bilayer membranes due to photo-oxidation. It has a direct impact on the skin’s barrier shape. The inhibition of the lipid peroxidation helps to decrease the negative effects of the solar radiation on the skin.

In tubo test, photometry.

Test: MODULATION OF THE INFLAMMATION

The inflammation processes in the skin are caused by both, the natural ageing process and the exogenous factors. They lead to the premature skin ageing (inflammaging) and the lesions appearance (ex. dark spots). The modulation of the biomarkers such as IL-1a, IL-2b, IL-6, IL-8, TNFa helps to control the skin inflammation.

ELISA tests or immunofluorescence.

Test: REACTIVE OXYGEN SPECIES (ROS) EVALUATION

Oxidative stress in skin plays a major role in the aging process. It is caused by both, intrinsic aging and the extrinsic one, driven by UV irradiation. During oxidation, free radicals can damage the skin. The inhibition of the ROS activity helps to improve the cellular processes and skin overall shape.

Fluorescence measurement.

IN VITRO SAFETY EVALUATION OF THE COSMETIC INGREDIENTS AND PRODUCTS:

Determination of sunscreen UVA photoprotection in vitro, following ISO 24443:2021.
In vitro phototoxicity test, following OECD 101 & 432.
Eye irritation in vitro test, following the OECD 491: Short Time Exposure In Vitro Test Method for Identifying i) Chemicals Inducing Serious Eye Damage and ii) Chemicals Not Requiring Classification for Eye Irritation or Serious Eye Damage.
Eye irritation in vitro test (HetCam).
In vitro skin sensitization (h-CLAT test), following OECD 442E.
In vitro skin irritation, following OECD 439.
Genotoxicity test (In Vitro Mammalian Cell Micronucleus Test), following OECD 487.
Mutagenicity test (bacterial reverse mutation test, Ames Test), following OECD 471.

CONTACT FORMIn vitro tests

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