Hyperpigmentation
Hyperpigmentation of the skin is a common dermatological issues in which the color of the skin generally becomes darker. Hyperpigmentation occurs when the pigment producing cells of the skin, called melanocytes, begin to produce too much pigment – melanin. These changes in skin coloration can be a result of various internal and external factors and can be manifest in different forms.
Types of hyperpigmentation and their causes
Hyperpigmentation can be caused by a range of factors, such as excessive sun exposure, hormonal changes, aging, reactions to medications, cosmetics, or after skin inflammation, and injuries. The most frequently encountered types of hyperpigmentation and their causes:
- Lentigo it is small, dark spots typically on the face, hands, arms, and other sun-exposed areas. The most common cause is excessive sun exposure, especially in fair-skinned individuals, leading to solar lentigines – also known as sunspots or age spots.
- Melasma it is symmetrical, brown spots typically on the face, especially on cheeks, forehead, upper lip, and chin. The most common cause is hormonal changes especially associated with pregnancy , use of oral contraceptives, or hormone replacement therapy.
- Freckles it is small, light or dark brown spots typical on the face, arms, and upper body. Genetic predisposition plays a significant role in their occurrence. Sun exposure makes freckles more intensive particularly in individuals with fair skin and red hair.
- Post-Inflammatory Hyperpigmentation (PIH) it is dark spots that remain on the skin after skin inflammation. They can occur on any part of the body affected by inflammation. Inflammatory skin conditions can occur after acne, injuries, eczema, psoriasis, or other inflammatory conditions.
- Hyperpigmentation from injuries it is dark or red spots that may be permanent or gradually fade over time. Hyperpigmentation can occur after mechanical injuries, such as cuts, scratches or surgical scars. Hyperpigmentation also can occur as a reaction to irritating substances, such as cosmetics, or chemicals.
Cosmetics products with skin lightening properties
Most cases of hyperpigmentation can be improved over time, for example after used the cosmetics products with appropriate ingredients. The most popular ingredients in cosmetics with lightening properties are: Hydroquinone, Vitamin C (Ascorbic Acid), Kojic Acid, Niacinamide (Vitamin B3), Retinoids (Retinol, Retinyl Palmitate, Tretinoin), Azelaic Acid, Licorice Extract (Glabridin), Arbutin, Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) and Beta Hydroxy Acids (BHAs). These ingredients work through various mechanisms, such as inhibiting melanin production, accelerating skin cell turnover, or providing antioxidant protection. Moreover, it is very important in the daily routine against hyperpigmentation, to protect the skin with sunscreen products, because sun exposure intensifies this dermatological issue.
How to confirm the effectiveness of lightening cosmetics?
Lightening cosmetics products are intended to reduce the visibility and brightening of hyperpigmentation and even out the skin tone. Confirmation of such products properties requires the use of specialized measuring devices and research methods that will be carried out in studies involving humans with this kind of skin problem.
Specialized measuring devices used in studies on the effectiveness of cosmetics that lighten hyperpigmentation:
Mexameter® MX 18 is a very easy, quick and economical devices.
- Mexameter® MX 18 measure the two components: melanin and haemoglobin (erythema). The measurement is based on absorption/reflection. The probe of this device emits three specific light wavelengths and a receiver measures the light reflected by the skin. As the quantity of emitted light is defined, the quantity of light absorbed by the skin can be calculated.
- The melanin is measured by two specific wavelengths (red: 660 nm and near infrared: 880 nm) chosen to correspond to different absorption rates by the pigments.
- The probe of this device is small and lightweight for easy handling and measurement on all body sites.
- Mexameter® MX 18 is indispensable in efficacy testing and claim support for cosmetics with lightening properties to prove claims, such as: reduce the visibility and brightening of hyperpigmentation and even out the skin tone.
Skin-Colorimeter® Flex CL 440 is a device for measuring the color of skin, hair and other materials in the CIE L*a*b* color space.
- Skin-Colorimeter® Flex CL 440 has two interchangeable measuring tips even small skin areas can be precisely captured.
- The Skin-Colorimeter probe is specially designed to detect smallest colour changes very close to the skin surface– it is important for comparison measurements.
- Most modern device for maximum accuracy, LEDs with high CRI (colour rendering index).
- The CIELAB color space (also known as L*a*b*) is a color space defined by the International Commission on Illumination (CIE). Correlation between the color space and the human skin:
- L* gives information about the black-white-axis, the brightness/ lightness.
- The a*-value located on green-red axis is proportional to the erythema (microcirculation/redness of the skin).
- The b*-value located on the blue-yellow axis – in literature it often describes the pigmentation.
- Automatic calculation of ITA – Individual Typology Angle for each measurement. ITA uses L* (luminescence) and b* (yellow chromatic) to classify 6 skin colours – from very light to dark. ITA° is a tool to objectify skin colour for predicting the biological consequences of UV exposure on the skin.
Miravex Antera 3D® is a camera, which allows to capture high-resolution images to document effectiveness of cosmetics products.
- Miravex Antera 3D® uses an innovative optical method and complex mathematical algorithms to analysis images in three dimensions. This makes it possible to extract data from images related to the three-dimensional shape of the skin.
- It is possible to quantify the efficacy of cosmetics products and monitor changes over time.
- This multi-spectral device, can analysis a lot of skin parameters. One of them is pigmentation and redness.
- Thanks to the Miravex Antera 3D® multispectral analysis and the known absorption spectra of pigmentation and redness, their concentrations can be measured.
- Possibility to take a series of images over time, which allow to monitor changes in skin pigmentation.
- Miravex Antera 3D® measures colour differences on the skin, which is important in assessment the effectiveness of lightening cosmetics products.
All of this devices: Mexameter® MX 18, Skin-Colorimeter® Flex CL 440 and Miravex Antera 3D® can be used for:
- Initial assessment of the skin condition of subjects participants in the study.
- Monitoring changes in skin pigmentation at various stages of the study after the use of cosmetic products with lightening properties.
- Documenting the effects of using cosmetics in an objective way.
- Confirmation of marketing declarations regarding lightening hyperpigmentation and evening out skin tone.
Summary
Confirming the effectiveness of lightening cosmetics requires the use of advanced devices, measurement techniques and a well-planned methodology of the study which is selected depending on the product. Conducting study on humans who meet the inclusion criteria and follow the study protocol is ensures the reliability of the results, which is necessary for assessment of the effectiveness of lightening cosmetics.
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